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Traditional
English food
Traditional
English food is often characterised as bland and stodgy.
Historically
there is justification for this and perhaps the pies and pudding of the
past were necessary fare for agricultural and industrial workers in an
often cool and damp climate. Certainly food rationing during and after
the second world war did nothing to help, but British food has now
moved
on and in London especially the visitor can experience modern
British cookery at its best from chefs like Gordon Ramsay <Ramsay
cookery books>, Gary Rhodes (Rhodes 24 at Tower 42 <website>)
and from restaurants like St. John near Smithfield Market or Roast at
Borough
Market.
"What
London has that other cities don't right now is high quality food at
all
levels. In every category, from comfort food to gastronomic
experiments,
we loved what we ate" John Willoughby, executive editor, US magazine
"Gourmet".
London
now
Almost
every cuisine in the world is represented in London, from quality
Italian
cooking at The River Cafe out in Hammersmith, (in the suburbs you will
sometimes find "Italian" restaurants whose association with Italy is
far
in the past) through Chinese in Soho and curry
almost everywhere. <Central London curry
houses>.
There's no guarantee of authenticity of course. I note some Americans
expect
to find good Mexican food, which is probably the last thing to look
for,
although there are one or two to be found. My advice is not to look for
ethnically themed places at all, many of the best places now serve what
can be best called "modern British" or "modern European" cooking,
interpretations
of some traditional dishes along with new creations drawing on food
cultures
from all over Europe and further afield.
Restaurants
are constantly changing so either a good eye for a restaurant or a guide
book are essential. In Spain or Italy, for example, you are
unlikely
to get really bad food anywhere except a few tourist traps, but in
London
take a little more care. I always avoid chain restaurants, places with
laminated menus that don't change with the season, smells of cheap
cooking
oil and "chips with everything" establishments. If you're looking for
something
cheap (London isn't a cheap town) try a pub or a
sandwich
bar. I never eat in burger bars, cheap kebab shops or from street
hot-dog
vendors. In the upmarket restaurants in places like Charlotte Street
you
will often find offers available if you are willing to eat at lunchtime
rather than dinnertime (lunch starts at about 12 noon in London and
dinner
is at 8 pm although traditionally people may eat as early as 6 pm.
Recently
it has become much easier to eat later but don't expect to be able to
sit
down at midnight.
Restaurant
bills may have service already added, if not you may wish to leave a
discretionary
tip of about 10%.
Dress
codes
In
the top end hotels and restaurants you may find some places that
require
men to wear a jacket, a tiny number of places also insist on a tie. The
Ritz is one that insists on the latter. La Gavaroche on the former
(2005)
Both have items they will lend you. The number of these establishments
dwindles each year. (I have never worn a tie to a restaurant in my
life,
DJ (tuxedo) occasions aside.
"Smart
casual" is fine everywhere else. Leather shoes, chinos and a shirt,
plus
a jacket if you feel it's a smarter place.
Sleeveless
vests and shorts may be frowned on but will probably be allowed, but
don't
believe you are fitting in. The same applies to a lesser extent to
jeans,
trainers and track suits. (Although jeans may not be regarded as the
thing
to wear in smart places, don't believe the old myth that wearing them
is
going to mark you down as an American).
In
pubs and modest restaurants anything goes except that bare chested men
will usually not be served.
Beware
of pubs that have a no trainers/jeans rule and a doorman to enforce it,
this is more likely to indicate rough customers than the opposite. The
same goes for a pub displaying an "Over 21 only" sign.
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Curry
Almost every
suburban high
street in London boasts at least one curry house, but if you are in
Central
London, they form a much smaller percentage of the restaurants. Almost
all curry houses provide a "take away" or "carry out" service for
eating
at home (possibly except for the smart central London ones), as do most
Chinese restaurants.
Unfashionable Brick
Lane
is a centre of curry houses for the indigenous Bangladeshi
population.
Some
central London curry houses:-
Benares Berkley
Square W1<website>
Bombay Brasserie
Courtfield
Close SW7 (£££)<website>
Cafe Lazeez 21 Dean
Street
W1<website>
Cafe Spice Namaste
16 Prescot
Street E1<website>
Caravan Serai 50
Paddington
Street W1
Chor Bizarre 16
Albermarle
Street W1
Chowki 2-3 Denman
Street
Piccadilly W1
Chutney Mary 535
Kings Road
SW10 (£££)<website>
Cinnamon Club Great
Smith
Street SW1 (£££)<website><cookbook>
La Porte des Indies
32 Bryanston
Street W1 (£££)<website>
Malabar Junction 107
Great
Russell Street WC1 <website>
Palms of Goa 12
Charlotte
Street W1
Rasa Samundra 5
Charlotte
Street W1 (fish)<website>
Red Fort 77 Dean
Street
W1 (£££)<website>
Salloos 62 Kinnerton
Street
SW1
Soho Spice 124
Wardour Street
W1
Tamarind 20 Queen
Street
W1 (£££)<website>
Quilon 41 Buckingham
Gate
SW1 (£££) <website>
Veeraswarmy 99
Regent Street
W1 (£££)<website>
Zaika 1 Kensington
High
Street W8 (£££)<website>
(£££)
at expensive end of scale
If you get away
from the
centre to Bromley or Bexley (SE), do try:-
Tamasha
Restaurant &
Hotel
131, Widmore Rd
Bromley Kent BR1 3AX
Tel: 0208 460 3240
(Bromley North
station,
double room £65 (2003) )
<website>
An elegant if
expensive
restaurant in the top 100 UK curryhouses, redolent with memories of the
raj. I recommend trying the fish or seafood dishes and do
finish
your meal with Tamasha special coffees (min 2 persons) expensive but
spectacular!
The British
Curry
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Pubs
Almost every street
in Central
London has a pub somewhere. You are most likely to find traditional old
style English food in a pub (although it could be almost anything from
cheap to high end, although rarely fish and chips
as in "The Yacht" in Greenwich, pictured here). Do try English beer
("bitter"),
if you don't like the first pint, try another. Yes, it is meant to be
virtually
still, and no, it should not be freezing cold. The traditional beer is
usually that served from pumps on the bar (which should actually pump
up
the beer, not just act as switches, no CO2 should be
involved),
in pints and half pints. Anything fancy on the the bar which lights up
and dispenses gassy liquid by pressure or pump is not English beer and
will probably be inferior copies of German or Scandinavian lager style
beers (or the despised "keg", fake British beer, brewery filtered and
served
under gas presure). There is rarely waiter service in pubs but as so
many
become more and more food oriented this is changing a little.
Most pubs serve food
at
lunchtime, many in the evening and some now stay open all afternoon.
Although
the mad English licensing laws, (leftover from the first world war) are
now much moderated many pubs (especially in quieter areas) will
be
closed between 3 pm and about 5.30 pm. Closing time will be sometime
from
11 pm.
The other
traditional British
drink is of course whisky, served in pubs in tiny measures, without
ice."Glenfiddich"
is often available as one of the main choices.For a quality malt whisky
you would probably like "The Macallan" which is one of the softer
sweeter
Speyside whiskies, there will often be a bottle on display at the back
of the bar.
Pubs normally also
sell
table wine by the glass.
The
CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2010.
4,500
of the best pubs throughout the country serving good beer
selected by CAMRA's 77,000 members (no listing fees accepted) plus
beer,
breweries and beer festival listings. Listing of pubs of significance
to
national heritage. Prize winning beers of the year. Edited by
Glenfiddich
award winning Roger Protz
Buy
from
Eating
out in pubs - Michelin
Good
food in informal surroundings.
The
British pub has been transformed over the last twenty years. Once a
place
to drink good beer, play darts or dominos and chat, the arrival of the
car as the usual means of transport at first opened up many rural pubs
to new visitors. But the realisation that drinking and driving didn't
mix
then left many in crisis. Beer had often reached a low point with
second
rate "keg" substitutes for the real thing and no food. Luckily
enterprising
landlords soon realised that things must change and the modern pub
emerged,
selling good "real" ale alongside good food. When this guide clattered
through the letterbox, it only took a few minutes to see they had found
most of the classics, pubs that it had sometimes taken me half a
lifetime
to stumble across, others I used to play darts in after work, that I
learn
with surprise are now serving good food rather than crisps.
Each
pub gets a page, with a colour photograph, contact details, facilities
and brief directions.A box indicates which real ales are served.(Its
sad
to see, from an English point of view, that the Irish pubs still
generally
have no real ale, oh for a pint of "real" Guinness) Food serving times
and prices are given and then there is a pen portrait of the pub and
its
food along with typical dishes.
This
is the first edition of this guide, long may it continue!
Buy
from
The Gastro pub
cookbook
- Diana Henry
150
of the best dining pubs in Britain and Ireland.
20 gastropubs dealt
with
in detail with atmospheric black and white photos of the regulars along
with colour photos of the pub locations and the food. Recipes from the
featured pubs are usually at the "comfort-food" end of modern british
cooking.
Things like smoked haddock with poached egg and mustard sauce,
shepherds
pie or lamb shanks with harissa on pea couscous.

The
London Pub Haydon
115 pubs from the
East End
to Soho. The pubs origins, architecture and character with photos of
interiors
and exteriors. An ideal starting point for a pub crawl round some of
the
best pubs in London and a nice souvenir for the visitor. Practical
information
with location maps, opening hours and food and drink.There are many
interesting
pubs in London but some of the best are hidden away, although only
yards
from busy roads. Do you know which pub is on both sides of a street
connected
beneath the pavement?
Which pub has
written above
the bar "Meum et propositum in taberna mori vinum. Sit appositum
marlentis
ori, ut decunt cum venerint angelorum chori. Deus sit propitus huic
potentori"?
"To
die in a tavern is my definite plan, with my mouth to the tap as close
as I can, that the angels would say when singing began: O Lord show
mercy
to this boozy man".
Which pub used 50
types
of marble in its construction?
Which pub, founded
in 1583,
was the model for "The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters" in Dickens's "Our
Mutual Friend"?
You would if you
owned this
book!

Some
classic London pubs
The Champion
13 Wells
Street W1
The Coal
Hole
91 Strand WC1
The Cock
27 Great
Portland Street
The
Lamb & Flag
33 Rose Street
WC2
The Ship
& Shovel
Craven Passage
WC2
The Grapes
Narrow Street
E14
The Lamb
Leadenhall
Market EC3
Punch Tavern
Fleet Street
EC4
Ye
Olde Cheshire Cheese
Fleet Street
EC4
The George
Borough High
Street SE1
The
Mayflower
Rotherhithe
Street SE16
The
Trafalgar Tavern
5 Park Row SE10
The Dove
Upper Mall W6
The
Prospect of Whitby
Wapping High
Street |
CAMRA
listed interiors
The
Black Friar
Queen Victoria
Street EC4
The Olde
Mitre
Ely Court
Citte of
York
22 High
Holburn WC1
The
Princess Louise
208 High
Holburn WC1
The
Salisbury
St Martins
Lane WC2
The Black
Lion
Kilburn High
Road NW6
The Red Lion
Duke of York
Street SW1
The Argyll
Arms
Argyll Street
W1
The Windsor
Castle
Campden Hill
Road W8
Warrington
Hotel
Warrington
Crescent W9 |
Food
specialists
The
Eagle
Farringdon
Road EC1
The
Oak
Westbourne
Park Road W2
The
House
Cannonbury
Road N1
The Duke of
Cambridge
St Peters St N1
The Highgate
Highgate Road
NW5
The Drapers
Arms
Barnsbury
Street N1
The
Ladbroke Arms
Ladbroke Road
W11
The Well
St John Street
EC1
The Fox
Paul Street EC2
The Pilot
56 Wellesley
Road W4
The Cow
Westbourne
Park Road W2
The
Anglesea Arms
Wingate Road W6
Ealing Park
Tavern
South Ealing
Road W5
Anchor and
Hope
The Cut
Waterloo SE1
The Waterway
Formosa Street
Bayswater
W9 |
More
pub books
Wine bars
The number of wine
bars
grows daily, on average they will tend towards better food with less of
the hubbub of a pub.
Fish
and Chips
A few central London
chip
shops. Note that the fish market is not open on Sunday/Monday so avoid
those days.
Fish Central
149
Central Street Barbican EC1
North Sea 7
Leigh
Street WC1
Rock and Sole
Plaice
47 Endell Street WC2
Fryer's Delight
19
Theobolds Road WC1
Golden Hind
73 Marylebone
Lane W1
Sea Shell 49
Lisson
Grove NW1
Seafresh
80 Wilton Road SW1
Masters Super Fish
191 Waterloo Road SE1
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